In 2023, over 9 million tourists visited Georgia, drawn to its ancient cathedrals, forts, monasteries, scenic mountains and wineries – ANIL THAKORE

Georgia was never on my bucket list. So, when friends suggested a holiday in this East European country, all I could recall was that a few years ago a brutal Russian invasion had destroyed vast swathes of this defiant nation. Out of curiosity to assess the damage rather than enthusiasm, I signed up.

My skepticism was soon belied. After a six-hour direct flight from New Delhi, our group of ten landed at a very modern Tbilisi International Airport. Much to my surprise, the airport was brimming with international tourists including hordes of Indians. A google search revealed that over 9 million tourists had visited Georgia (pop. 3.8 million) in 2023 drawn to its ancient cathedrals, forts, monasteries, scenic mountains and wineries. Immigration formalities were efficiently conducted, and a travel guide greeted us warmly.

Exchange counters abound outside the airport because the only currency accepted countrywide is GEL aka Lari (1 US$ = 2.7 Lari). On the advice of our guide, a few dollars were exchanged (“you will get a better rate in the city”) and soon we were driving through a beautifully landscaped six-lane highway along the beautiful River Kura. The efficiency and speed of the check-in process at the Royal Tulip Hotel was impressive. The rooms were large with wall-to-wall windows affording scenic vistas of mountains and the River Kura.

Bordered by Russia, Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan and the Black Sea, Georgia is a one-party state masquerading as a democracy. After the Russian Revolution in 1917, Georgia briefly emerged as an independent republic under German protection, but was invaded and annexed by the Red Army in 1921, becoming one of the 15 Republics of the Soviet Union. In the 1980s, an independence movement culminated in Georgia’s secession from the Soviet Union in April 1991.

For much of the subsequent decade, the country endured economic crises, political instability, and s

ecessionist wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Following the peaceful Rose Revolution of 2003, Georgia strongly pursued a pro-Western foreign policy, introducing a series of democratic and economic reforms aimed at integration into the European Union and NATO. However, Russia still occupies some Georgian territory in the Caucasian Mountains.

Tbilisi

The administrative and commercial capital of the Republic of Georgia, Tbilisi hosts almost a third of the country’s total population of Kartiveli (the local name for Georgia). Founded in 455 AD on the banks of the River Kura, Tbilisi was an important trade junction on the Great Silk Route. With its diverse architecture including cathedrals, monasteries and fortresses and maze-like, cobblestone streets of its old town, Tbilisi is a delight for history buffs and an excellent base point for excursions.

A 45-minutes drive from Tbilisi is the grand Svetitskhovelli Cathedral, sited in the old admin capital city Mtsksheta. A Unesco World Heritage site, it was built and rebuilt from 4 CE to 1029 CE. Inside its chambers are exquisite frescoes, icons, reliefs and friezes. After Russians ransacked it in 1830, many of the artefacts have been moved to the National Georgian Museum.

An hour away, the striking Alaverdi Monastery in the Kakheti region, is set amidst fertile pomegranate, orange, peach, and apple orchards and mile on mile of vineyards.Although Georgia’s dry, demi-sec and dessert wines are excellent, they were a global secret under Soviet rule. 

However, viticulture has been practiced in the country for over 8,000 years, giving Georgia the distinction of being one of the oldest wine-producing countries. The monks of Alaverdi have reportedly established one of the world’s oldest wine cellars dating back to 4-6 CE. Visit the Twins Wine Cellar, modernized to distil over 32 varieties of wine, and offering wine tasting sessions.

Our next stop was the Bodbe St. Nino’s Convent, where St. Nino who brought Christianity to the Kingdom of Georgia in 4 CE, is buried. The legend of St. Nino restoring the eyesight of the pagan King Mirian III, thereby converting him, his queen and subjects to Christianity is popular folklore. Located amidst beautiful gardens with tall cypress trees in the Alazani Valley, the convent affords a panoramic view of the scenic mountains of Kakheti.

Foot weary, we stopped by for lunch at a boutique restaurant, Aura, in the quaint town of Sighnagi, the City of Love. After lunching on traditional delicacies of kinkily (mushroom dumplings), khachapuri (cheese breads), kabaddi (spiced meat curries), fresh salads and wines, we wandered into the cobble-stoned town, famous for the second-largest fortress wall after the Great Wall of China.  With 23 towers, stretching 4 km, it was built in the 18th century to protect Sighnaghi and 22 other townships of the Alazani Valley. Roadside shops and stalls displaying hand-crafted textiles, shawls, purses, hats, garments, dolls and mementos line the steep cobblestoned streets.

After an exciting and memorable day, a bunch of us stepped out to sample the night life of Tbilisi. Three kilometers downhill and we were in the cobblestoned, neon-lighted buzzing centre of the old town. We chose a roadside restaurant with a live band whose members also crooned popular Bollywood songs.

Next day, after an early morning breakfast we started our drive to the beautifully laid-out town of Gori, 85 km from Tbilisi. A roadside stop at a shop introduced us to exquisite local handicrafts and traditional style of winemaking in kvervis — clay jars embedded into the ground in which crushed grapes are fermented. We sampled fresh chacha (wine) the traditional way — in kanskis i.e, cleaned and polished bull horns. Churchkelas — the local sweet candy — in reds, yellows, pinks are also worth sampling. These delicacies are made from grape must, walnuts, and wheat flour, rolled to a banana shape and dipped in various fruit juices and wine.

Sited at the confluence of two rivers, the Mtkvari and the Liakhvi, the city hosts the grand Gori Fortress, built on a hill cliff overlooking the centre of the modern city. On another hill stands the 18th century St. George’s Church of Gorijvari, a popular place of pilgrimage. Popular for being the birthplace of communist revolutionary Soviet dictator Joseph Stalin, Gori also hosts the Joseph Stalin Museum.

The famous ancient rock-hewn town of Uplistsikhe aka city of caves and a Unesco Heritage Site is nearby. Dating beyond 3000 years, these caves were an important religious, cultural and political centre of the period, predating the Christian era. The caves have been cut into rock hills, indicating use of metals and alloys. There are administrative halls, prisons, sacrificial altars, residential enclaves, water collection wells and sighting towers, making Uplistsikhe inaccessible to enemy armies.

Our last day in Georgia was reserved for sightseeing in Tbilisi. On the agenda were visits to the Parliament House, Holy Trinity Cathedral, a walk through the picturesque cobblestoned Old City, Bridge of Peace, and Rike Park. Nowhere on the roads, sidewalks and parks did we see any litter, garbage or filth, so common back home.

The last adventure was a cable car ride offering a bird’s-eye view of the terracotta roof tops of the Old City contrasting with modern skyscrapers of the new city. Stepping off at the base of the Narikala Fort, a busy thriving cobblestoned road led us to the peak of the mountain and Mother of Georgia statue. This 20-m aluminum statue depicts a woman with a bowl of wine (symbolizing friendship and peace) in the left hand and a sword (symbolizing defence and protection) in the right. Magnificent when viewed at sunset.

Dinner was reserved at the Gorgasali Restaurant in the old city. We were treated to a traditional Georgian cultural dance where men and women displayed amazing acrobatics, footwork and style. A wine ice cream under the lamppost was our goodbye to Georgia and the delightful experience it had offered us.

Watch out for my next dispatch and adventures in neighboring Azerbaijan.

Accommodation (Tbilisi). Top-end: Hilton Batumi (Rs.12,427 per night), Duende Hotels Lagodekhi (Khiza) (Rs.10,863), Wild Escape Racha (Rs.10,242); Mid-range: Hotel Astoria Tbilisi (Rs.6,545), Silver 39 Corner Hotel (Rs.4,204), Belona Hotel (Rs.3,590); Budget: Apartment Queen Tamar 74 (Rs.2,762), Borjomi Veranda (Rs.1,933), Uyut (Rs. 1,145) 

Travel tips

• Georgia sets stringent e-visa requirements. Budget 15 days for application and visa process.
• US$/Euro is the currency of exchange and only GEL (aka lari) is accepted for transactions.
• Indian, western, Turkish and local cuisine is available in Tbilisi, but not necessarily in other cities.
• Literacy levels are high as schooling is compulsory up to the age of 17-18.
• Georgia is a middle-income country with a per capita income of US$ 6,685 (cf. India US$ 2,293).
• Indigo flies daily from Delhi to Tbilisi.
• The best time to travel is April to October. November/December can be cold and snowbound.
• Traffic is well disciplined, no honking. Roads are wide and pot-holes free.